Keswick to Caldbeck
Miles walked: 16
Highest point reached: 658m above sea level
The youth hostel we slept in on the second night was situated right next to a river. Which was very nice scenery wise, but unfortunately meant that, just like on that terrible third night of the Dales Way, we had to keep the window closed to keep the midges out. This resulted in us having to sleep in an environment highly reminiscent of a sauna. Well, a sauna that smelt strongly of sweaty socks anyhow.
Still, I managed to sleep relatively well considering and woke up nice and refreshed and eager to eat twice my own bodyweight at the buffet breakfast. Mmm… sausages.
Right from when I started planning this years walk I knew that day three was going to be one of the hardest. Any route that crosses the summit of a fell named “High Pike” is bound to contain a fair bit of uphill walking. There is an alternative route for the Cumbria Way which skirts round the base of the fell, but we’d pretty much agreed that we’d only go for that option if weather conditions meant that the higher paths would be hazardous. As it was shaping up to be a gloriously sunny day we resigned ourselves to dragging our panting carcasses up a bloody great big hill. Someone remind me why this is meant to be enjoyable again.
Oh yes, the views.
Although in truth the majority of the pleasant vistas were confined to the start and the end of the walk, most of the time we spent tramping through pretty nondescript fells and moorland. Very nice for the first half hour or so, but got a little boring after that.
Even when we set off at at 8:30am the weather was warm, and as the day progressed it got hotter and hotter. Despite me carrying three liters of water I completely ran out at around 2pm, Faced with the choice of having no water and dying on the spot of dehydration or filling my water sack from a stream and dying of botulism at some point the following week I chose to fill up with wonderfully cool water from a nearby brook. Yes it was probably contaminated with all sorts of horrific bacteria, and was most likely made up of 67% sheep urine, but it looked pretty clean and tasted alright so I thought I’d risk it.
We reached the top of High Peak at around 3pm and all took satisfaction that from that point on the Cumbria Way would be downhill all the way to it’s end at Carlisle. Plus from the top we could see all the way to Scotland. It’s always a thrill being able to see another country from the top of a hill, even if it is just a second rate pretend country like Scotland.
Pausing for a breather and a quick unflattering group photo we made our way down the other side of High Peak and into the rather picturesque village of Caldbeck. Craig’s partner Caroline was meeting us here as a prelude to them both heading up into scotland for a holiday after the walk had finished. She had done a marvelous job of scouting out the area before we arrived and pointed us towards both the pub we were staying in and the local ice cream shop.
After a very satisfying meal and few beers we all retired to bed. Despite the fact we still had 14 miles to walk the next day it somehow felt like the end of the walk. Perhaps because the most difficult bits were behind us, or perhaps because the arrival of Caroline echoed the last day of the Dales Way. Whatever the reason I awoke the next day a little reluctant to sling by backpack over my shoulders again. Still, when your train home leaves at 7:30pm from a station 14 miles away you don’t really have much choice other than hit the road.
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All these posts make me a little envious. I got to see the inside of a very quiet office, with the occasional stroll to the beach at lunchtime. The tide was out, and it smelled of rotting seaweed.
Envious.
“Despite the fact that there was 14 miles to go the next day it felt like the end of the walk”
Because you told us there was only 10 miles on the last day!
I had to re-read the sweaty socks sentence, just for clarity.
Sounds like you a had a great time, again. And great idea to trade diet coke for sheeps’ piss, must taste similar.
SingleParentDads last blog post..Skipping
Sounds like a good time, but you don’t want to mess with those fresh water parasites. Next time, bring some of these:
http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___22150
then you can drink all the sheep urine you want.
Oli – Only on the Tuesday though surely? I am in the process of getting a refund for your cash by the way, I have to fill a load of forms in, but it’s coming.
Sam – I never claimed to be a good navigator.
SingleParentDad – How dare you sir! Diet coke is the very nectar of the gods.
JJ Daddy-O – Pah, those tablets are for girls.
Amazing views and I must say I’m really rather envious of you partaking in a few pints in that pub. Bugger do I ever miss real pubs.
Kevin Spencers last blog post..Guns
Blimey Dan that picture of you shows how much weight you’ve lost! You’ll be running around in the shower to get wet soon!
I haven’t been to the Lake District for years and I forgot how beautiful it is.
Penelopes last blog post..Exciting news x2
Great Photos Dan. And I’m sure the other 33% was urine from various other animals. All the best tasting streams are blends these days.
James (Seattledad)s last blog post..10 years and counting . . .
That first picture… WOW! I’m sure I’d be so entranced by the view that I’d mis-step and end up rolling down the hill.
Idaho Dads last blog post..I Was A Teenage Moose
great post and great photos. the scenery is incredible to me. but that’s probably because i live in a desert.
VegasDads last blog post..progress
Good lord man, pull yourself together. Running out of water and drinking unhesitatingly straight from a babbling stream while a sheep looks on at ten paces is what makes us gruff northern blokes, erm, well, gruff northern blokes.
Or is it just me that’s babbling.
Steves last blog post..Cool pool
Kevin – I rarely go to the pub these days, but it’s certainly nice when I do.
Penelope – I look a little fatter than reality in that picture actually as the strap of my backpack highlights my belly.
James – True, True. I just hope that the rat urine was kept to a minimum that’s all.
Idaho Dad – We were actually walking away from it, and so had to keep looking behind us.
Vegas Dad – Really? I thought you would at least be in houses by now. i guess it’s true what they say, Americans really are backward.
Steve – You’re right. I shall go out and drink a cup full of the river Aire immediately as penance.
England is spectacularly beautiful. Thank you for posting the photos and reminding me of that! I’m not thanking you for posting the photo of what looks to be an excellent pub as I’d do anything for a decent pint in a lovely pub garden in the sun. The traumas of living abroad….
Brit in Bosnias last blog post..driving me mad?
@Brit in Bosnia, to be fair it’s only parts of England that is beautiful. No one could argue Sunderland is a place of outstanding natural beauty for example.
Yes – but I live in a place which my father in law described as ‘an industrial city without the industry’. Sunderland would have the edge.
Brit in Bosnias last blog post..driving me mad?
@Brit in Bosnia, I dunno. I think Chernobyl has the edge over Sunderland.