Cumbria Way, day one

Ambleside to Honister Hause

Miles walked: 15
Highest point reached: Stake Pass, 480m above sea level
Weight of backpack: 19lb

Our journey began at Huddersfield train station at some ungodly hour in the morning where Craig, Rich Bassinder, Rich Brook, Dave, my brother Sam, and I staggered onto the train groaning under the weight of our backpacks.

A couple of hours later we bundled off the train into a cold wet and miserable Windermere station. We were still undecided about how exactly we were going to get to Ambleside, the start of our heavily customized version of the Cumbria Way. Originally we’d planned to take a ferry across lake Windermere, but that involved a hour long wait at the landing dock and we were all a little nervous about arriving at that evenings accommodation before they stopped serving food. Fortunately Sam leapt to the rescue and, spotting a nearby bus, ascertained from the driver that he was going where we wanted to go. This act of heroism was rewarded by the rest of us unanimously deciding that whenever we had to ask anyone anything again, Sam would be the person to do it. That’ll teach him to be socially confident, the little bugger.

And so after a short bus ride we were finally in Ambleside and ready for the off. The weather was still pretty poor and so we all donned our waterproof coats and trousers. These ranged from high tech top of the range professional gear like Sam’s, to what can only be described as a series of different colored dustbin liners stuck together like Craig’s. Although to be fair, no matter how much is spent on them, everyone wearing walking clothing looks like a complete knob anyway so you might as well go for the cheaper option.

The first two or three miles were all along the road and pretty boring, but once we hit the Cumbria Way proper at Skelwith Bridge both the scenery and the weather improved dramatically and the day started shaping up to be a really pleasurable experience.

As the walk progressed we moved into even more beautiful countryside. Walking along the floor of the Great Langdale Valley with its imposing peaks towering either side of us Rich Bassinder was moved to state:

“The guide books are right you know. The Lake District completely pisses all over the Yorkshire Dales”

I’m not quite sure what guide books he’s been reading, but they are right. The views on the Cumbria Way were far more impressive than those on the Dales Way last year; although that may have something to do with the fact we got a lot higher this year and so got some really good vantage points.

Unfortunately to be high you first have to do some walking up hills. And we had two pretty significant climbs on day one. The first was up the extremely steep and rocky Stake Pass. We had known this climb was on the horizon all morning, and it had been lurking in the back of our minds like some sort of skulking wolf. As we approached the hill the weather started to become gloomier as if to reflect our mood and someone nervously pointed out:

“Hey, this valley looks like it’s a dead end. I guess we’ll just have to go back”.

But there was no going back, round, or under for us. The only way was over. But still, after a very unpleasant half an hour or so we managed to crest the hill. And I’m sure we all learned a lot about ourselves in the process. For example before climbing Stake Pass I didn’t know that your entire face could pulse with the ferocity of a jackhammer. Still it was all worth it for the sense of achievement.

In retrospect anyhow.

The second big hill was right at the end of the day, just as we were nearing exhaustion point from 15 miles of walking. It was a hard drag up to our Youth Hostel at the top of Honister Pass, but the euphoria finally taking the backpack off for the very last time that day just about made up for it. As did a rather nice home cooked meal of cumberland sausage and veg, apple pie and custard for pudding, and a couple of bottles of locally brewed beer.

Then it was bed by about 9:30. Sad but true.

At the end of day one I felt a bit wet and achy, but no where near as much as I did at the end of the first day of the Dales walk, and the going back then had been considerably easier. It’s really brought it home to me how much fitter I am now than I was last year. Don’t get me wrong, I’m in no way, shape of form an athlete or anything. I sweated, panted, and grumbled my way through the day’s walking as much as the next overweight slob. But it’s certainly given me motivation to try and push on and become even healthier. Or that’s the plan anyhow.

You can see more of day one’s photos here

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Related posts:

1. Cumbria Way, day two
2. Cumbria Way, day three
3. Cumbria Way, day four